Gorilla Trekking in Uganda: When a Broken Plane Led to a Bucket List Adventure

In January, we set off for Rwanda with big plans and even bigger excitement. But just as we were cruising through the skies, our plane… broke. Mid-air. Yep—our flight turned around and we ended up back where we started. And with that unexpected detour, we missed the most anticipated part of the trip: trekking to see mountain gorillas.

But we weren’t giving up that easily.

Once we got home, we regrouped, rebooked, and came back with an even bigger itinerary and a lot more determination. This time, we made it an overnight trip instead of a quick day trek—and honestly, I’m so glad we did. Staying at Rushaga Gorilla Lodge, tucked inside Uganda’s stunning Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, was a major highlight. Cozy, welcoming, and perfectly located just minutes from the trek start points—it was everything we needed.

Our guide, Christopher, picked us up right at 8 AM from our guesthouse in Kigali, and from there, our second attempt at gorilla trekking was finally underway.

Why We Chose Uganda Over Rwanda

One of the biggest deciding factors? The gorilla permits.

  • Uganda permits are currently $800 per person (as of July 2025)

  • Rwanda permits are $1,500 per person

The experience is incredible either way, but if you’re traveling with a group or family, the savings in Uganda can be significant—and the trek is just as magical.

What’s Included in the Safari Package

Every tour company is a little different, but here’s what was included in ours (and what I’d recommend looking for):

  • Gorilla trekking permit

  • 1 night accommodation (we chose mid-range, triple room)

  • All meals

  • Bottled water

  • Private 4x4 safari vehicle

  • Fuel

  • English-speaking driver/guide

  • Hotel pickup and drop-off in Kigali

  • Optional stop at Lake Bunyonyi or Lake Mutanda

Day 1: Kigali to Bwindi (With a Few Twists)

The drive from Kigali to the Bwindi area takes about five hours—depending on road conditions. We traveled during rainy season, which meant some roads were washed out and, to add another layer of excitement, we had to pass through Ebola checkpoints at the border. (All standard precautions, nothing alarming.)

We originally planned to stop for lunch at The Coffee Pot Café, but it was closed (note: closed Sundays!), so we made an impromptu stop across the street at a nearby hostel. No complaints though—the view of Volcanoes National Park from the courtyard made the detour completely worth it.

The drive through the hills toward Bwindi takes you past remote villages and sparkling lakes—this part of Uganda is often called “The Switzerland of Africa,” and for good reason.

Day 2: Gorilla Trekking with the Mucunguzi Family

We had an early morning meetup with the rangers and were assigned to track the Mucunguzi gorilla family—a group of eight that included one silverback male and three adorable babies.

There’s no shortage of packing lists online, but here’s what I found truly essential:

  • A porter (non-negotiable—get one!)

  • Walking stick (included with the porter)

  • Water

  • Gardening gloves

  • Bug spray

  • Gaiters or high socks

Porters typically cost about $15 USD, and that includes the walking stick. Tipping is appreciated and well-deserved. You’ll likely have two trackers, two guides, and a ranger with you. A standard tip is around $5 USD per person, but more is always appreciated.

Surprise Detour… Again

In true “Trip’n with Trina” fashion, our trek got interesting fast.

About an hour in, we found out we’d been tracking the wrong gorilla family. But thanks to all the snacks, drinks, and patience we packed (plus our incredible porters), we took it in stride. It’s best to prepare for anything—some hikes can take up to six hours depending on the gorilla group’s location.

Once the trackers located the Mucunguzi family, we began the second leg of our hike—straight down the mountain through thick jungle. Even with good hiking boots, we slipped constantly. The foliage was wild, the terrain rough, and I now have even more respect for people who hike through this terrain regularly with machetes in hand.

Face-to-Face with a Silverback

The first gorilla we encountered? The massive silverback.

Let’s just say… he wasn’t thrilled to see us.

The trackers were clearing brush near him when he suddenly charged, showing his teeth in a not-so-subtle warning. The golden rule of gorilla trekking is: don’t run if a gorilla approaches. But of course, most of our group panicked and scattered. Looking back, it’s funny. In the moment? Absolutely terrifying.

A powerful reminder that, while these gorillas are habituated to humans, they’re still wild animals—and we’re in their territory.

After he calmed down and found a comfy spot to nap, we moved on and found the mother and two babies. The little ones were playful and curious, and we did our best to stay still as they checked us out. You’re supposed to keep at least 7 meters of distance, but curious baby gorillas sometimes have their own ideas.

The hour we spent with them flew by—it was surreal, peaceful, and deeply humbling.

The Jungle Doesn’t Let You Leave Easily

The trek back out? Brutal. Straight up through thick undergrowth. At one point, we were literally swinging from vines to climb the steep sections. It felt like something out of Jumanji. But we made it, sweaty and proud.

At the finish, we received a completion certificate, hugged our guides, and thanked them for the unforgettable experience. Our driver met us with our packed lunch, and we headed back to Kigali—physically exhausted but emotionally full.

Final Thoughts

If gorilla trekking is on your bucket list, don’t let delays, rain, or mid-air malfunctions stop you. This experience is one of the most powerful, humbling, and awe-inspiring things I’ve ever done. Uganda delivered in every way, and I’m so thankful we didn’t give up after our first attempt.

Happy Traveling,

Katrina

Central Asia - Part 1 Turkmenistan

Central Asia was just named Best Region to travel in 2020!! I cannot agree more. 

Many years ago I became completely fascinated by the Silk Road. The journeys, spices and textiles make it a cultural paradise. I wanted to maximize my time in the area and many friends raved about Lupine Travels - 5 Stans tour. Its a jam-packed and adventure filled two weeks. The days were long, but you really get a great feel of the region. Another reason I love Lupine Travel is the mix of people they get on their tours. After joining one of their tours a year earlier in Bangladesh and Bhutan. I knew the kind of people they attract on their tours. We had people from ages 24 to 70 and everyone meshed so well. 

The 5 Stans tour starts in Turkmenistan and ends in Kazakstan. If you are not a lover of long days and nights this is not for you. We were up most days before 6am and turning in for the night around 11pm. 

I decided to arrive a day early into Turkmenistan to enjoy a day of leisure before the big group showed up. We landed into Ashgabat in the early morning hours. The city was vibrantly lit up from the sky and looked somewhat to the Las Vegas strip from the air. Not what I had expected when we landed. I met up with my roommate and some of the group that morning. We decided to head out to the cable car and some locations in the city not covered in the tour. The cable car was interesting and it offers a great view of the city. I could spot this amazing looking building from the lookout point and after a bit of convincing the drivers took us. Who would have thought a broken ferris wheel within the Alem Cultural and Entertainment Center would look so cool. Its been broke for a few years, but was really neat to get up close to. 


We headed into the Russian style market for lunch. It was filled with tasty goodies and fresh fruit and veg. Another gem I did not expect was the amount of candy stores we would find. I am talking wall to wall confectionary goodness. I brought back nearly a kilo of chocolate and ate triple that over the two weeks. 

We had a traditional dinner nearby the hotel and copious amounts of vodka, for you know medicinal purposes. That is pretty true for the whole tour, as stomach illness is fairly common for everyone in this region. 

The next morning we met up with the rest of the group to start our real adventure. We took a short city tour visiting Monument of Neutrality, Türkmenbaşy Ruhy Mosque, Independence Monument, Memorial Complex and The State Museum of the State Cultural. 

We then setoff to the desert for our overnight stay at the famous gas crater. We left the large tour bus behind and started our convoy into the desert in 5 SUVs. The roads were less than favorable, but in the end its all an adventure. We arrived at the grater at dusk and awaited the guides to put up our allocated tents. The camping was one of the highlights for me as you are hours from any city. The star filled sky paired with the light from the crater was breathtaking. The guides made a delicious lamb and veg kabob meal and we drank by the campfire until nearly sunrise. 

Early morning departure to Dashoguz for an overnight stay before we headed into Uzbekistan. This day was quite a blur due to being fairly ill. Not sure if it was food or the amount of booze consumed, but I was in a pretty bad place. Lots of meds, water and sleep once we arrived to the hotel. The group enjoyed a tour of a temple and dinner that evening.  

Onward to Khiva we crossed the border in the most humorous way. There is a small bus you must use between the border. You pretty much pack in like sardines and allow the driver to toss you around for around 5 minutes weaving through barriers. 

To be continued in Part 2 - Uzbekistan

Happy Traveling, 

Katrina